No Waste Flying Geese

For a long time, I’ve preferred the stitch and flip method for making flying geese. Lately though I’ve been using the No Waste method. It uses less fabric than the stitch and flip method and unlike stitch and flip, you’re not wasting any. It’s also a pretty easy method to use! I should note that with this method, you end up with four identical flying geese.

First, Figure out your fabric requirements

Flying geese have two components—the “goose” and “the sky”.

For this method, you’ll need (1) goose square and (4) squares. To figure the size of the goose square needed, add 1-1/4” to the finished width of your flying geese. If you want to make flying geese that finish at 2” x 4”, then you’ll need (1) goose square that’s 5-1/4” (4” + 1-1/4”).

To calculate the size of the sky squares, add 7/8” to the finish height of your flying geese. Using our example, you’ll need (4) 2-7/8” sky squares (2” + 7/8”).

Sew the first two sky squares on

Draw a diagonal line on the back of the sky squares. Place (2) sky squares, RST (right sides together) on opposite corners of the goose square. Sew 1/4” away from the line on either side.

Cut on the drawn line. Press the sky squares back.

Sew another sky square on

Place a sky square on the unsewn corner of one of the units. RST. Sew 1/4” away from the line on either side.

Cut on the drawn line and press the sky square back. Repeat with the other units.


You now have four identical flying geese! Isn’t that cool? Be sure to trim your flying geese as needed before sewing them into your block.

Turned-Edge Fusible Machine Applique

There are lots of different ways you can applique by machine, and this method is one of my favorites! The next time you need to add applique to a quilt, consider adding this method to your quilting toolbox.

This method results in a finished edge (rather than a raw edge which can fray in time). For me, this method works best when used with large shapes because I find it difficult to turn the edge of smaller shapes. Try it and see for yourself!

Trace the applique shape

Trace your shape onto the non-fusible (the non-shiny) side of lightweight fusible interfacing. The shape you trace should be the reverse of the finished shape as you want to appear on your quilt. Roughly cut out the shape.

To hold the interfacing in place while you trace, use a quilter's sandboard.

Pin the fusible interfacing to your fabric and cut out the shape

Pin the fusible interfacing, fusible side (the shiny side) down on the right side of your fabric. Yep, you want the fusible stuff touching the right side of your fabric. Seems wrong, but trust me, this is right.

Pin the interfacing in place, the cut around the shape roughly, leaving at least a seam allowance.

Sew the applique shape

Sew on the drawn line completely around your applique shape. Use a slightly smaller stitch length to make a good strong seam.

Trim your seam allowance

Trim the fabric and interfacing, leaving a scant 1/4” seam allowance. Clip outer curves to make it easier to turn the curve. Clip into inner curves such as the V in a heart shape. Trim the tip off points close to the seam to help keep them sharp after turning.

Cut a slit in the interfacing

Pull the interfacing away from the applique shape and cut a small slit, being careful not to cut into the applique.

Turn the shape right-side out

Turn the shape right-side out by pulling it through the slit. Carefully poke out any curves or points until the shape is completely turned. Finger press the edges of the applique to flatten them but do not iron or you’ll fuse the applique to something you don’t want to!

Fuse applique in place

Because the applique process may cause your background fabric to shrink up a bit, you should cut the applique background square larger than needed, and then trim it down after appliqueing. Place your applique in position then fuse it in place following manufacturer’s directions.

I always cover the applique with a pressing sheet to protect my iron from the fusible glue but I didn’t do that here so you could see what I was doing.

Pin stabilizer to the back of the applique

The stabilizer will prevent the applique edges from puckering when you stitch the edges down. Stabilizers come in lots of varieties—tear-away, wash-away, and cut-away—and it doesn’t matter which one you choose. Just follow the manufacturer’s directions for attaching it to the back of the applique and to later remove it after stitching.

Set up your machine for applique stitching

Even though the applique is fused in place, you should stitch along the edge to permanently attach it. You’ve got a lot of options here: you can use a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, blanket stitch, satin stitch, or other decorative stitch to finish the applique edge.

To prepare my machine, I change to an Applique/Sharps 80/12 needle and thread my machine with either 50 or 60 wt. cotton thread. You can go with a thread that contrasts, or use a thread that matches the color of the applique. I use the same thread in the bobbin.

Since I normally piece with a straight-stitch throat plate, I switch to a zigzag stitch plate if I’m going to use a zigzag, blanket, satin, or other decorative stitch. I put on an open-toe or zigzag foot and I’m ready to go!

Stitch the edge of the applique

Stitch the edge of the applique with a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, blanket stitch, satin stitch or other decorative stitch.

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